When 18-year-old Ruth comes to an off-season caravan park in Cornwall to spend the holidays with boyfriend Tom, the gloomy setting seems determined to reject her. Claire Oakley opens her debut feature, Make Up, on the ominous rubble of the stormy sea, and the sounds of roaring waves and buffeting winds are persistent in their presence on the edges of the whole film. The campโs staff of locals identify the โincomerโ in grumbling Cornish drawls. When Ruth’s suspicions that Tom might be cheating lead her down a rabbit hole of personal, and sexual, discovery, Make Up reveals itself to be a delirious, allegorical and image-dense merging of atmospheric horror and a gritty coming-of-age drama. Though a number of her ideas only ultimately manifest on a superficial level, Oakleyโs hungry, intelligent approach to identity and desire is still arresting to watch.
Wrapped in an oversized menโs hoodie, Molly Windsor first appears onscreen as Ruth looking far younger than the characterโs 18 years as she nervously bites her fingernails in the back of a taxi pulling up to the camp. Tom (Joseph Quinn) leads a fairly meagre existence there, living in a dishevelled, pokey cabin and working at the arcade. He is affectionate and playful with Ruth, but insistent as teenage boys can be. As Ruthโs illusions about her beauโs life fall away, ย she is sheepish and timid, never fully at ease. Her piercing blue eyes intensively scour the disappointing details. She finds a lipstick smudge on Tomโs mirror and long, red hair on his work clothes. It plays out like the start of a detective noir, as Ruth gathers the first clues to solve a mystery.
After getting her own job on the camp as a housekeeper, Ruth strikes up a rapport with Jade (Stefanie Martini), who is at ease expressing herself through dyed hair, distinctive make up and colourful attire. A grouchy Tom alludes to Jadeโs โreputationโ to caution Ruth off, but Jade is the only person who meets Ruth with ease and interest. Sheโs drawn in when Jade treats her grizzled nails and paints them a brilliant scarlet. Ruth complains that she โlooks like a stupid kid playing dress-upโ when she wears make up. Jade represents to Ruth the womanhood that she is convinced she canโt attain. Jade is the opposite to how Ruth herself is around Tom, frequently seeking his embrace or curling up in his lap like a child. Seeing the alternative only serves to feed into Ruthโs speculation that Tom might not be all heโs cracked up to be, and that there might be more to Ruth than even sheโs aware of yet.
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To this point, Make Up favours a sort of heightened realism, with Oakley letting Ruthโs unspoken tumult manifest in unnerving ambient noises that batter the cabins and intense, fragmentary close-ups on details that fuels her confusion and paranoia. Gradually, though, the film indulges a more psychedelic, subjective sensibility that makes visual the torment within her. Ruthโs attempt to remove her acrylic nails results in a fleshy, visceral mess of bloody red, and the windows of the parkโs empty cabins throb with foreboding, harsh white light. Ruth frequently finds herself alone in vast, echoey spaces, on tenterhooks listening out for every unidentified noise that closes in. Oakley lights Tomโs caravan in a cold blue that contrasts with the homely orange hue in Jadeโs. In a moment of near-intimacy with the latter, Ruth breaks away from the mysterious warmth in fear and runs out into a storm to get back to her muted, dissatisfying sanctuary.
It isnโt immediately clear whatโs shifting for Ruth, though, as her forensic efforts to uncover Tomโs secret lover and her increasing, but unnerving, fascination with Jade seem to coalesce. Windsor plays well in this ambiguous territory, keeping Ruth sympathetic even when her motivations and mental processes are unclear — largely because Ruth is as confused as the viewer. Without a clear fix on whatโs troubling her, she starts to see horror in the everyday. Ruth sees fleeting visions of a red-haired woman that no-one else knows about, and a shock discovery in the public showers plays like a psychosexual slasher. Itโs a disorienting experience as the sense of what is real slips increasingly from Ruthโs already loose grasp, and Oakley dials up the potency and creativity of her imagery, if not the clarity of its meaning.
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When Make Up reaches the light at the end of its twisted tunnel, its culmination is gratifying and sumptuously-realised. Its dalliances into the trippy and macabre are diverting rather than integral to Ruthโs arc, but the film is still a vivid and immediate experience. As a queer coming-of-age story nested inside a Lynchian headfuck, itโs an evocative and inventive work — well-performed across the board and authentic in its local specificities and idiosyncrasies. As a filmmaker, Oakley chooses to flex an awful lot of muscles at once — and if theyโre not yet at full strength, theyโll surely build up with further use. As Ruth emerges into the calm breeze and soft glow of the dawn in the wake the filmโs climax, itโs as if the violent nature of the setting was reflecting her, rather than rejecting her. Having reconciled herself, the unfamiliar locale bends accommodatingly to Ruthโs will, finally. The journey to get her there isnโt the most fully-realised or coherent, but itโs a beguiling, honest work of British cinema nonetheless.
Rhys Handley (@RhysHandley2113) is a journalist and film writer from Yorkshire in England. Now based in London, he is the biggest Talking Heads fan who still hasnโt seen Stop Making Sense.
Categories: 2010s, 2020 Film Reviews, Drama, Film Reviews, Mystery, Thriller

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